Written By: Jonathan
Fact Checked By: Caroline Dezendorf
Reviewed By: Matt Tanner
So, when you keep your bicycle cables very well lubricated then your bicycle will also run smoothly and safely as well.
As bicycle cables are typically made of tightly wrapped stainless steel, they’re actually responsible for transferring force from your levers to your brakes and gears.
And it’s normal that over time cables can dry out, rust, or accumulate dirt inside their casing.
This is specially likely to happen when you ride in wet, dusty, or muddy conditions.
So whenever this happens, you might start to notice stiff gear shifts, creaking brakes, or poor response: and these are all signs that your bicycle cable is really struggling to move freely.
Not only that, but according to professional bicycle mechanics: cable friction is one of the most common causes of poor shifting and braking performance in both road bicycles and mountain bicycles.
That is why you need to perform proper lubrication at regular intervals as it reduces friction, prevents corrosion and also significantly increases the lifespan of your cables and housing.
Additionally, film-thickness studies of Polywater found that even at 25% of recommended lubricant levels there was a significant reduction in friction, while applying more than 200% of lubricant showed no benefit, and even the additional lubricant was deposited without any negative effects.[¹]
The task is simple and effective and in this guide you’ll learn all about how to lubricate bicycle cables, so you can always keep your cables clean, protected and working like new.
Tools
Tool / Supply | Description & Purpose |
---|---|
Cable Lubricant (Teflon/Silicone-based) | This is actually a special bicycle cable lube that actually helps reduce the friction between the cable and the housing as it repels moisture and also protects against corrosion. Therefore, use mild, penetrating lubes specifically formulated for cables, and you should avoid thick greases or general-purpose oils like WD-40. |
Allen Wrenches (Hex Keys) | This is necessary for loosening and tightening the bolts securing your brake or derailleur cables and most bicycles actually use 4mm, 5mm or 6mm Allen bolts. |
Clean Rag or Microfiber Cloth | It is actually used to wipe off dirt, old lubricant, and grime from the cables before applying fresh lubricant. Also, you should use a lint-free cloth as it works best. |
Needle-Nose Pliers | These are really useful for gently pulling, holding or adjusting the cable when removing or reinserting it from the housing. |
Bike Stand (Optional) | Yes, it’s not really necessary, but a bike repair stand elevates the bike off the ground and makes it much easier and safer to access and work on cables. |
Cable Housing Lubing Tool (Optional) | This is a special injector tool that ideally allows you to spray lubricant deep inside the cable housing which is especially useful for internally routed cables or when you want to avoid removing the cable completely. |
Light Degreaser (Optional) | You will need this if your cables are very dirty or sticky as a bike-safe degreaser can be used to clean them thoroughly before lubrication to ensure smooth re-lubrication afterwards. |
Latex or Nitrile Gloves (Optional) | Gloves are always useful as they keep your hands clean and protect your skin from the oils or chemicals in lubricants or degreasers and are also great for sensitive skin or frequent bike maintenance. |
Let’s Understand Your Cable System First
When you want to properly maintain your bicycle the first thing you need to do is understand how the cable system actually works, because bicycle cables are really essential as they control both braking and shifting functions.
And that’s why when you know what type of cables your bicycle uses and how they’re actually routed, it will certainly help you lubricate and maintain them more effectively.
1. Types of Bicycles Cables: Brake Vs Derailleur
There are actually two main types of cables available on a regular bicycle: brake cables and derailleur cables.
Brake Cables
Brake cables are actually responsible for activating your braking system when you actually press the brake lever as these cables also need to be strong and fully responsive which ensures your safety and they typically operate under higher tension and are also a bit thicker than derailleur cables.
Derailleur Cables
So, now on the other hand, the derailleur cable actually controls the gear shifting, so when you actually press the shifter this derailleur cable actually pulls or releases tension so that’s how it moves the derailleur and also changes the gears.
Also, these cables also require very smooth movement to ensure accurate shifting, which is why if there is any resistance or stickiness it can actually result in poor gear changes.
And while both cables look very similar, the derailleur cable is actually thinner and more susceptible to dirt, abrasion and wear when it’s misaligned: This is why you have to lubricate at regular intervals which is even more important for derailleur cables.
2. External Vs Internal Cable Routing: How It Changes Your Approach Actually
Therefore, bicycle cables can be installed in two main ways: externally which goes along the frame or internally which goes through tubing.
1. External Routing
External routing basically means that the cable runs on the outside of the frame, and this arrangement is actually more commonly found on older bicycles and entry-level models.
Plus, it’s easy to inspect, remove, clean, and lubricate as everything is readily available.
So, if you are really new to bicycle maintenance then external cables really make the job a lot simpler and easier.
2. Internal Routing
Internal routing is often found in modern and higher-end bicycles, as the cables are actually hidden inside the bicycle frame, giving the bicycle a cleaner look and reducing exposure to the elements.
However, internal routing is difficult to work with and this is for the simple reason that the cables are not fully visible, so lubricating them often requires cable lubrication equipment or more advanced techniques, such as: partial disassembly.
IMPORTANT: If your cables are internally routed and you are really unsure how to proceed in that situation, it is often safer to use a housing lube injector tool.
3. Cables with Housing Vs Exposed Cables
1. Cables with Housing
Essentially cables with housing are actually protected inside a plastic or rubber outer layer known as the cable housing.
Moreover, this design actually keeps the internal cable safe from all kinds of dirt, water, and corrosion.
Also, most modern bicycles actually use full-length housing, especially for derailleurs and internally routed systems.
Additionally, these cables require lubrication inside the housing to reduce friction and allow the cable to slide smoothly.
2. Exposed Cables
Exposed cables are often found on older bicycles or in specific sections, such as between the frame stops, as these are sections of the inner cable that are not covered by the housing.
And these parts are actually more vulnerable to rust, water and dirt.
This is why when you want to lubricate exposed cables, it becomes even more important to first clean them thoroughly and then apply a light layer of lubricant directly on the metal surface.
Did you know? According to tests carried out by bicycle component manufacturers, even a slight friction inside the cable housing can reduce braking force or shifting accuracy by up to 30%.
When and How Often Should You Lubricate Bicycle Cables?
You should lubricate your bicycle cables at the right time, it really makes a lot of difference in how smoothly and safely your bicycle works, as many riders overlook this simple maintenance step, but it directly affects how smoothly your bicycle changes gears and how effectively it actually brakes.
1. Based on Riding Conditions
Exactly what conditions you ride in also plays a significant role in how often you should lubricate your cables, If you frequently ride in wet, muddy, rainy or dusty conditions your cables will accumulate dirt, moisture and dust much quicker than normal.
As these elements can seep into the cable housing and thus cause corrosion, increase friction and also make it more difficult to move the cables.
- If metal cables are not properly protected, they often suffer internal corrosion due to wet conditions.
- In dusty or dry conditions this can create literally fine particles that act like sandpaper inside the home.
- And if you ride on gravel, off-road trails or simply commute daily your cables are exposed to more wear and tear and require proper attention more often.
And those who ride in really clean, dry and mild conditions may not need to lubricate as often: but you should still check for deposits or dryness from time to time.
2. Recommended Intervals
So, as a general rule: it’s a really good idea to lubricate your bicycle cables every 3 to 6 months, or about every 1,000 miles (about 1,600 kilometers).
- Therefore, if you ride frequently, especially on varied terrain or in bad weather, every 2 to 3 months is a safe interval.
- Also, for occasional or seasonal riders, checking and lubricating your tires at the beginning and end of your riding season is also a smart habit.
NOTE: You don’t actually always need to completely remove the cables, as a quick inspection and spot lubrication can go a long way in keeping things running smoothly between intensive services.
3. Signs You are Overdue for Lubrication
Usually your bicycle shows some warning signs when the cables are actually lubricating and you can recognize them early, this can help prevent bigger problems such as: cable breakage or poor braking.
- Stiff or slow gear shifting: When you notice gear shifting and the chain is really hesitant or doesn’t move cleanly, it clearly means you need to check the lubrication.
- Squeaking or squeaking of brake levers: This is a common noise caused by dry cables rubbing inside the housing.
- Cable Drag: If there is a heaviness, stickiness or inconsistent feeling when you pull the brake lever or press the shifter, it means the lube is past its use.
- Visible rust or corrosion: You’ll actually see these things around exposed cable ends or where they may enter the housing.
So, if you notice any of these signs then these are clear indications that your cables need cleaning or lubrication to work smoothly again.
How to Lubricate External Bicycle Cables (Step-By-Step)
In fact, when we compared bicycle cables to internally mounted cables, they are much easier to access and maintain, making them ideal for lubrication at home.
1. Shift into the Lowest Gear or Just Release Brakes
So, before you start you need to shift your bicycle to the lowest gear on the rear derailleur which is actually the largest rear cog or simply release the brake tension if you are working on brake cables.
Because this step ideally reduces the tension on the cable, making it easier to remove and preventing any unnecessary stress on the components.
And for brake systems, you can easily release the brakes by loosening the cable anchor bolt or removing the brake quick-release lever, which is also commonly found on V-brakes and caliper brakes.
This is really important because a tensioned cable is very hard to pull out of the housing and can break or even damage other parts, so start with zero tension, which makes the process much smoother and safer.
2. Detach the Cable from the Component
Now, simply use an Allen wrench (usually 5mm) to loosen the anchor bolt on the derailleur or brake caliper where the cable is actually secured.
And when it is completely loose then gently pull the cable out of the housing.
Also, you don’t actually need to remove the cable completely from the shifter: because you only need to loosen it enough so that the inside of the housing is visible and that’s it.
Also, you have to be very careful to avoid fraying the cable wires, because if you see any fraying or splitting in the cable wires then this is actually a good sign that the cable should be replaced and not just lubricated for reuse.
3. Clean the Cable
Now, you need to use a clean and dry cloth or microfiber cloth and then wipe the exposed part of the cable first.
Really it’s just to remove old lubricant, grime, dust or rust, and if the cable is very dirty or sticky you can use a bicycle-safe degreaser, but you really need to make sure to wipe it down thoroughly before applying new lubricant.
So, this is really important because dirt and dried-on grease can literally cause drag inside the housing, and that is why applying grease without cleaning will only trap the dirt inside and make the problem worse.
4. Apply Lubricant
Now you’ve thoroughly cleaned the cable it’s time to lubricate it, so simply use a mild, penetrating cable lubricant such as: Teflon or silicone based and then apply a few drops along the length of the exposed cable.
Next, to help the lubricant spread evenly across the cable wires, gently twist or move the cable back and forth while applying it.
Additionally, you should avoid any thick greases or general purpose oils such as: motor oil or WD-40, which are either too heavy or not designed for any precise cable movement.
Additionally, a proper bicycle cable lube should be thin enough to reach the inside of the housing and stick to the cable without attracting too much dust.
Also, if you want to be extra careful you can squirt some lubricant directly into the opening of the cable housing to allow it to spread inside as the cable actually retracts back in as well.
5. Reinsert Cable and Retighten Properly
So, once the cable is properly lubricated, gently slide it back into the housing, and you also need to make sure that it moves smoothly: as there should be minimal resistance.
Also, reattach it to the derailleur or brake caliper and then tighten the anchor bolt securely using your Allen key.
And after securing it, test the tension and functionality of the cable by changing gears or pressing the brake lever.
Also, if there is too much looseness or tension you will need to make adjustments using the barrel adjusters near the shifter or brake lever.
Finally you will need to ensure that all cable ends are clean, secure and have ferrules on them if you want to prevent any wear and tear.
How to Lubricate Internally Routed Cables
Internally mounted cables are really popular on modern bicycles, as they offer a cleaner look, reduced wind resistance and better protection from the weather.
Although more challenging to access and maintain than externally routed cables, it is indeed essential to keep these cables properly lubricated for smooth shifting and braking.
1. Use a Cable Lubing Tool or Housing Injectors
Therefore, the most efficient and beginner-friendly way to lubricate internally routed cables is actually to use a cable lubrication device: this is also often referred to as a housing injector.
As these tools are designed to clamp around the cable or housing and this allows you to spray lubricant directly into the interior of the cable under pressure.
In addition, they create a sealed path allowing lubricant to flow through the full length of the housing without having to remove the cable.
Additionally, You should always use a bicycle-specific lubricant that is designed to penetrate the cable housing, as Teflon or silicone based sprays work great because they are thin, long lasting and prevent moisture build up.
2. Inject Lubricant Directly into the Housing
If you don’t actually have a lubricating tool, you can still apply lubricant by carefully injecting or dripping it directly onto the ends of the housing where the cable actually enters or exits the frame.
Not only this, you have to hold the bicycle in such a way that the end on which you are applying lubricant is facing upwards.
Now, apply a few drops using a fine-tipped applicator or spray nozzle, and then gently move the cable back and forth by pulling the brake lever or changing gears, spreading the lube along the cable path as well.
This is necessary because internally mounted housings are often long and curved, which increases friction and is why proper lubrication actually reduces resistance and keeps the cable moving freely even through tight ends inside the frame.
3. Let Gravity or Pressure Pull it Through
So, once the lubricant is actually inside the housing, let gravity do its job.
And now hold the bike so that the housing is tilted downward from the entry point to allow the lubricant to flow through over time.
Also, you can gently operate the lever shifter or brake a few times to build up internal pressure and you can help distribute the lubricant evenly.
Additionally, if you are using a pressurized cable lube device the lubricant will automatically be driven along the entire length, allowing it to sit for a minute or two and then wipe away any excess lubricant that appears at the other end of the casing.
4. Alternative Method: Remove the Entire Cable If Needed for Full Cleaning and Lube
Now, If your internally routed cables haven’t been maintained in a really long time or if you simply notice symptoms such as: rough shifting, brake pulling or cable corrosion, it may be best to remove the entire cable and do a deep cleaning and full lubrication.
Also, the process involves actually stripping the cable at both ends, and then carefully pulling it out of the housing and then cleaning the inside with a pipe cleaner or cable-specific cleaning tool.
Additionally, if the cable shows signs of rust or wear, you can re-lubricate it and re-cable it or install a new cable.
NOTE: For bicycles with complex internal routing, you must actually re-thread the cable which can be the tricky part, as some frames have guide tubes built in and others may actually require the use of magnets, a guide wire or special tool to route the cables correctly. Also, if you’re really unsure, it’s a good idea to ask a bike shop for help or watch a model-specific tutorial.
Read More:
Conclusion On How to Lubricate Bicycle Cables
In fact, when you lubricate bicycle cables, it ensures that your commands are transferred easily and quickly.
And lubrication is really important because cables can dry out, rust or become clogged with dirt, causing friction that can lead to poor shifting, delayed braking and even the dreaded cable failure.
If you have any queries then you can comment below for more information about it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1. Can I use chain lube to lubricate my bicycle cables?
Answer: In fact not all chain lubricants are suitable for cables, as chain lubricants are often thick and designed to stick to external moving parts, and furthermore cable systems require really thin, low-friction lubricants that can penetrate really narrow housings. Not only that, if you want to use chain lube you need to make sure it is labeled safe for cables or is Teflon/silicone based and lightweight, and you should really avoid wax based or very thick lubes.
Q2. How do I know if my cables need lubrication?
Answer: These are obvious signs and if they are present it means your cables are dry or dirty:
1. Increased effort when pulling the brake.
2. Stiff or delayed transfer.
3. If the brakes are creaking or the brake levers are sticking.
4. If there is a rubbing noise when changing gears.
5. If you see really dry, rusty or worn cables.
So, these are the clear signs and if you see any of these, it means it is time to clean and lubricate the cables.
References:
[1] Polywater. Temperature effects on cable friction and heat generation.
https://www.polywater.com/en/knowledge-hub/the-science-of-cable-lubrication-film-thickness-and-quantity-recommendations/
Jonathan, the passionate owner of Bicycle Time, brings a lifelong love for bikes and automotive craftsmanship, that reflects into every corner of the shop. With deep passion in both cycling and automotive accessories, Jonathan is more than just an expert.